July 30, 2010
Papa Tony Savastano sits at a table at his popular Italian restaurant in Winter Springs, which just finished a renovation after 23 years in business. Photos by Isaac Babcock — The Voice
By Brittni Johnson
The Voice
Papa Tony seems like a tough guy.
He has a gruff exterior, and even after 40 years in Florida, he still has his New York accent. But then, as friend after friend stop into his restaurant, the tough guy facade melts away.
"Pop" and "Papa" they call him, even the men, as they enter the place with smiles and hugs. They — the customers turned friends at Papa Tony Italian Restaurant. It isn't "Cheers," but it certainly is a place where "everybody knows your name."
"It doesn't feel like a restaurant; it feels like coming home," said New Jersey transplant Gary DeFilippo, who eats at Tony's almost every day.
"Papa" Tony Savastano, who runs the 23-year-old Winter Springs restaurant with his daughter Juls McDaniel, said that most of his business comes from repeat customers such as DeFilippo. He likes that he knows every face he's cooking for, and that his daughter knows every name. She even knows what they're going to order, before they order it.
"They like that feeling of being known," McDaniel said.
And she likes knowing them. She looks forward to customers' weekly visits, and loves that she's seen kids younger than her when she started the restaurant, now grown up with children and still coming to Papa Tony's.
"These people that come into this restaurant, they actually become family," said Joan Coopersmith, a waitress at Tony's.
Customers agree.
"You walk in and they know you," said Ed Martinez, who eats at Tony's once or twice a week. "It's a great atmosphere."
That family feeling is part of the charm, and helps with the drawback of their location. Being a restaurant attached to a gas station doesn't always give the best first impression, but it might help make for a more compelling impression in the end, Savastano said.
"Anybody who comes is scared the first time," said Savastano. "But once they do come in, we own them."
He owns them with his food. All the recipes at Papa Tony's have been passed down by his mother, and everything is made fresh daily, by Papa himself. From the baked ziti and authentic Caesar dressing, down to the breadcrumbs that he covers his parmigiana dishes in, all are made to order by Savastano. And that's what keeps his customers coming back to the restaurant by the gas station.
"Consistency and quality are the most important things," he said.
And then there are the famous breadsticks.
"The breadsticks are insane," DeFilippo said. "We're lucky they're legal — my sister is highly addicted to them."
In its hay day, customers waited two hours for Tony's authentic Italian food. Savastano would hand out free breadsticks and wine to keep them happy. Back then, there was just a kitchen, order counter and a little group of tables. And while they've expanded since then, the economy has downsized and so has business. They're still going strong from loyal customers, though.
"If it wasn't for these people, we wouldn't have anything," McDaniel said.
But McDaniel and Savastano love to share their food with new faces, too. And when newbies sit at the kitchen window, Savastano loves to give them a taste of what he's making.
So all you have to do is take a chance, and don't, as that old saying goes, "judge a book by its cover," she said. Tony might even let you call him "Papa."
Italian eats
Papa Tony is located at 541 E. State Road 434 in Winter Springs. They boast big portions of freshly made Italian food for a small price, all served in a family atmosphere.
For more information, give them a call at 407-327-5155.
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